I sat at the table, waiting whilst the owner wrestled with a paper tablecloth that insisted on following a path which was being determined by the warm Meltemi winds rather than his gargantuan efforts. The view was spectacular and a welcome distraction to the battle taking place in front of me. The sky was an intense blue, the colour being reflected by the sea which pounded the rocks below. The Greek family who owned the establishment were laughing and talking loudly.